Havana Running Part 8: Searching, Shopping, and Stumbling Through Havana

 

Preview: What Would Hemmingway Do?

Part 1: Relaxing

Part 2: I Promise Not To Call This Sleepless In Seattle

Part 3: Just Sit Anywhere

Part 4: Taking It South

Part 5: Bienvenido a La Habana

Part 6: Day Into Night

Part 7: When the Rooster Crows

I'd like to think I'm a quick study in a lot of ways, but the ins and outs of buying Cuban cigars was a challenge.  This is likely because going in I knew absolutely nothing going in.  My faltering high school Spanish doesn't help either. 

 

I only happened to be roaming around Havana looking for cigars in the first place as a favor to a friend, but it also seemed like one of the 'things you do' on a trip to Cuba.  Plus, trying to search out and then go to the legitimate shops in town gave me more reason to explore and stumble upon other sights.  Havana is the type of place that overwhelms the senses in many ways, and you can walk the same street several times, and see things differently with each pass.

Stumbling upon beauty on the way to someplace else

Cigars are, unsurprisingly, very commonly counterfeit.  Because the more famous ones aren't cheap, even at the source, this trade is lucrative.  Knowing this sent my paranoia into overdrive, and resulted in my doing a fair bit of comparison shopping, and incremental money changing.  

Statue in the entryway

The actual process of the purchase was fairly straightforward once I learned what of the types on my 'shopping list' they had in the store.  Even though I felt like a total poser, I went through the process of checking the boxes for the required seals, stamps, and barcodes.  I'm sure they knew I was winging it, but they were already laughing at me for coming in three times in an hour, so what do I care? 

Interior doors of Casa Del Ron Cigars and Rum 

 

In the end I made the majority of my purchases at the Casa Del Habanos shop called Casa Ron which, coincidentally, is directly next door to La Floridita- a common haunt of Hammingway back in the day, and the self proclaimed 'Cradle of the Daquiri.'

Grabbing a spot at the bar at Bar Floridita

 

As an aside- this place is very well known and packed in the evenings, to the point of being uncomfortable.  If you're inclined to a bit of light day-drinking, even just for the atmosphere, I'd say that's your best bet with this place if you want a chance at a seat.  That said, the place is worth checking out, if only to watch the bartenders pour up to 20 daiquiris at a time, and to take a selfie with the bronze statue of 'Ernesto' who is immortalized, leaning on the bar. 

 

Ernesto, still at his favorite haunt

Also between the cigar shop and my Casa was the Plaza Del Cristo, which just so happens to be the location of El Chanchullero, a hole in the wall traditional Cuban restaurant with 5 tables, and a whole lot of good food, reasonably priced.  Finding this place was a challenge though, and I walked right by it several times.  To get there, find the plaza, and the restaurant is opposite the plaza in the middle of the block between Cristo and Bernaza.  Look for either a set of nicer big wooden doors, or if they're already serving, a crowd, and likely a line out the door.  Go early by a few minutes and wait for a table.

 

 

 

As became my tradition for the trip, I ordered the ropa vieja, which was made with pork here (I think).  It was much, much better than the one I got last time stateside in Houston a few weeks back.  However, I should have known I was in for a lackluster dish when the waiter tried to tell me that ropa vieja meant "old rope."  Google it.

 

After lunch, I wandered back through the city to my Casa to change my clothes (a perfunctory task though, given how even 5 minutes outside in Havana and you're sweaty again) and to put away my shopping before heading out again to check out the waterfront and get dinner. 

 

 

 

On the way back, a particularly stunning building caught my eye, and I headed into the open foyer.  It turned out to be the lobby of the Raquel Hotel, who's signature is the well maintained stained glass ceiling.  There's also a restaurant in the lobby and a bar if you want to stay awhile and enjoy it.   I wouldn't have minded a little more time, but there was another part of the city I wanted to make sure I checked out before the sun went down, so after a few minutes I went on my way.

 

And that is a story for the next update...

 

~CruisingAltitude

Of Icons and Eagles....

Well, we knew it was coming.  Even some of the less infatuated with the world of travel knew it- The last of the existing legacy carriers announced its merger plans in the midst of a reorganizing bankruptcy.  True, the deal isn't final.  There will be much discussion with regulators and bankruptcy judges before the creation of the new largest airline in the world is complete.  This (unsurprising) announcement comes as (the ‘New’) American rolls out myriad other changes to its image- a new livery, logo, fleet upgrade, even onboard menus. 

Now, it would be easy to turn this post into a concerned rant about how no good can come of this, and couldn't they just leave well enough alone.  I could go on about how AAdvantage is, though not perfect, one of the best domestic programs as is and how a change of management makes us flyers shifty.  However, in the end, my thoughts have nothing to do with the eventual outcome, and free markets being what they are, if things go too far afield there are other options for the individual passenger.  Besides, who knows, some change could be good.  In theory a merger will expand service, make the airline itself more financially sound, and God willing….let me fly from Long Beach instead of LAX on occasion.

Honestly, what I keep coming back to on this topic doesn’t have to do with miles or upgrades- it has to do with history.  Maybe it’s silly to spend this much time thinking about a company I’m not employed by, but I’ve had some long flights to ponder lately, so here goes.  As most things on this blog, it starts with an airport-

I was at DFW the day American unveiled the new paint (above) on the first 737.  In fact, it was just by chance I caught a glance as the Skylink I was on pulled away.  I was excited to see it in person, sure, and my first reaction was- ‘Hey, that’s not so bad.  The tail’s a little much, and the lack of the shiny silver will take some getting used to, but I’ll survive.’  Though, the more I thought about it, the more I felt the shift to something new, the leaving of something behind and a bit of nostalgia. 

That American Airlines eagle and his iconic “AA” logo has been with us since before the first “Flagship” DC-3 in 1936, and the first regular transcontinental flight in 1959.  He’s watched over the production of a fleet in wartime that went unpainted to save precious fuel, a fleet by in large made and designed in America.  His likeness was captured innumerable times in historic photos with leaders, celebrities, and heroes.  People flew with him to get home, to work, on adventures, and real-life ‘Ryan Binghams’ crossed milestones under his wings. 

Through the years his planes have gotten bigger, and he’s lost some feathers and talons.  But his wings still stood proudly on the tails of AA planes as they crossed the country, and traveled the globe.  The 'AA' and the Eagle are likely the most recognizable Airline logo in the US, possibly the world.  On the lighter side, there was so much fun in brand-based jokes on the “AA”-  We’ve had AAdvantages, AAirpasses, and even little red BlAAnkets.

American’s new post-merger fleet will be stripped of the icon, its aluminum painted over, and be infiltrated with foreign-made Airbus jets.  Some is inevitable- the industry is moving steadily toward composite-body planes that must be painted and rumor has it Airbus is handing out some deals that are hard for cash-strapped airlines to refuse. 

In response to the consternation of some of its frequent flyers with the reveal of the new paint, American was quick to point out that the Eagle is still there, subtly drawn into the new modernized logo.  I guess I see it, the white bit is a little ‘beak-esq.’  I suppose he’s just waiting there, peeking out to see how the future of the last great legacy carrier resolves itself.  Perhaps he should just be pleased for his, though limited, survival and not to have been relegated to the fate of many who went before- TWA, Northwest, PanAm, Continental….and yes I suppose soon… US Air.

In this industry, time just doesn't march on- it flies.  For now, I’ll go along with it...maybe with a little salute to the Eagle next time he flies by me, before they paint him over. 

~CruisingAAltitude